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All About Steel Blades
Caring for your Steel Swords
  Caring for your Steel Swords and Products
  • All the steel, except the stainless steel pommels will pick up some rust.
  • Areas of high humidity can affect the blade as well. Keep your blade inside and A/C environment as much as possible.
  • After use, or longer storage, wipe down with recommended sword oil.
  • If there is rust, use some fine sand paper, or scouring pad with oil to wipe off the rust and re-apply gun oil.
  • Use a fine metal file to remove any burrs that may appear on the blade or guard.
  • If there is damage on the sword grip, use superglue to hold down the torn wrapping.
Pear Or disc Pommel, Schilt or no schilt?
  Do I get pear or disc pommel? With or without Schilt?
  • Really good question. These are the differences. Historically, in most of the earlier art, historical swords, and manuals, most of what you see are disc pommel swords. The pear pommels are later and on the 16th century feders.
  • The disc pommel keeps your hands closer together. This is how swords were used, its in the manuals. It helps in many cuts and moves as your arms don't get as wound up. This can be considered better for technical sword fighting.
  • The pear pommel allows you to spread your hands out a bit more. This is better for larger gloves, and give you better thrust accuracy and control of your sword when cutting. So you can pull your blows a bit more. This can be considered better for tournament fighting.
  • The schilt (funny looking bat wing looking thing on the blade, above the guard) historically is mostly German, Meyer. This greatly helps protect the guard from taking impacts and getting loose over time. The schilt block hits that otherwise would hit the guard or some of your hand.
  • Without the schilt, is typically considered Fiore de Liberi, Italian. The advantage of NOT having a schilt is that there are some binding techniques that the opponents blade needs to be closer on the guard, and not farther out on the schilt. Those few inches changes the dynamics of some moves, and can allow the opponnts blade to disengauge ealier that should happen.
What is a feder?
  What is a feder?
  • Historically the term has been used in different context. But modern use of the word would be describing a blunt steel sword that is designed for vigorous use. Its often used tournaments or un-controlled fighting. It often has a schilt, but not required. It often has a longer grip to accommodate larger gloves, but not required. But, it must flex on the thrust. I think that is the big difference between just a blunt sword, and a feder. The flexing requires different spring steels that will have good flex and good rebound. A blunt sword, tends to be cheaper steels that are also harder/more brittle. Something like a 'standard steel sword' can vary in steel from brittle stainless steels, to high end swords made from exotic steels that can costs thousands of dollars. Those are designed to be stiff and cut well, and strong against the impact forces. But not flex and hold a sharp edge.
Whats with the different pommels?
  Whats with the different pommel you offer?
  • The pentii Scent stopper pommel is an original design, its kinda ugly, it can rust, its cheap.
  • The PHA scent stopper pommel pommel feels and looks nicer, but can rust.
  • The stainless steel scent stopper pommel will not rust, is nice, but expensive.
  • The word scent stopper pommel is from a perfume jar top.
  • Our pentti and VB disc pommels are usually peened or held in place. They will not twist. The red dragon disc pommels easily twist with use.
  • My cane pommels are typically stainless steel.
  • If there is rust, use some fine sand paper, or scouring pad with oil to wipe off the rust and re-apply gun oil.